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  Apparel Terms 
 
  Art 
 
  Embroidery Terms 
 
  Fabric Treatments 
 
  Fabric Types 
 
  Garment Weaves 
 
  Imprint Methods 
 
  Screenprinting 
 
  Website Information 
 
 
Apparel Terms 
   
 

What is Neck Tape?
Protective band of tape sewn over the seam between the shell and the collar for a more comfortable feel to the garment.
 

 

What is a Johnny Collar?
A knit, stand-up collar.
 

 

What is Wicking?
Movement of moisture within a fabric by capillary action, usually along the filament surface, to where it can evaporate quickly.
 

 

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What is Welt?
A welt is a pocket opening treatment. The welt is a cut and sewn piece of fabric that is used to finish the pocket opening.
 

 

What is a Storm Flap?
A strip of fabric covering the zipper or snap closure of the jacket and its pocket.
 

 

What is a Stand-up Collar?
A collar with a short height that does not lie against the garment.
 

 

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What is Recovery?
The capacity of a fabric to return to its origianl dimensions after being stretched out of shape.
 

 

What is an Epaulet?
A shoulder strap or collar trim that is styled with a military look.
 

 

What is Pigment Dye?
Washed down colors that will continue to soften and age with washing. Great for outdoor and casual looks.
 

 

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What is Drapability?
A fabric's ability to hang gracefully in a finished product.
 

 

What is Colorfastness?
The ability of a fabric to withstand exposure to sunlight, dry cleaning and laundering without fading or running. The types of fiber, dye and treatment used for setting the color determine how colorfast a fabric will be.
 

 

What is Face?
Traditionally, the side of a fabric that offers a finished or polished appearance. The face is normally used for outward print and decoration.
 

 

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What is a Gusset?
Added panel of fabric in a seam to provide action movement.
 

 

What is Full-fashioned?
A term applied to fabrics made on a flat-knitting machine, such as hosiery, sweaters and underwear, that have been shaped by adding or reducing stitches.
 

 

What is Mercerized?
A treatment of fine cotton yarn or fabric that increases shine, luster and strength. Its ability to absorb dyes produces vibrant colors.
 

 

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What is Interlock?
A plain-stitched knit fabric which looks the same on both sides. Often used for T-shirts and golf shirts.
 

 

What are Raglan Sleeves?
Sleeves are all one piece from collar to cuff, allowing for ease of movement.
 

 

What is a Running Stitch?
Sequential stitching which runs in a single direction.
 

 

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What is a Byron Collar?
A pointed, shirt-style collar.
 

 

What is a Slash Pocket?
Angled pockets that are formed by cutting a slash in the shell and attaching a pouch inside the garment.
 

 

What is a Set-in Sleeve?
Sleeves constructed to run from the shoulder to the cuff.
 

 

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What is Weft?
The horizontal (crosswise) threads that intersect the warp (lengthwise) threads in a woven fabric.
 

 

What is a Butterfly Collar?
A pointed collar that lies flat against the garment, but can be brought up and secured to ensure warmth.
 

 

What is a Patch Pocket?
A pocket added to a garment usually made of self material and withou pleats or lining, like a shirt pocket.
 

 

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What are Grommets?
Metal, plastic or stitched holes creating fabric reinforcement at stress points.
 

 

What is a Delrin Zipper?
A heavy nylon zipper with large teeth, often left exposed for style.
 

 
Art 
   
 

What programs can you accept?

We accept files created in Adobe Illustrator or Macromedia Freehand. If submitting art in Corel Draw, export the file as a .ai (Adobe Illustrator)Adobe Photoshop may be suitable if the art is only a 1 color. Please convert all text to outlines. Please convert all fonts to outlines. For more information go to Home - Production, Art Department, Art Requirements or Digital Art.

 

 
Embroidery Terms 
   
 

What is a Twelve-Head?
An embrodiery mahine having twelve heads or stations. Each contains needles with the capability to sew multiple thread colors at the same time. This machine can embroider 12 garments at one time.
 

 

What is an Underlayer?
Random stitches sewn to under-cover stitches and lettering to stablilize fabric and add depth.
 

 

What is Cover Stitch?
Background of solid embroidery. Background behind copy.
 

 

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What is a Tape?
Originally, the item that contained the programming for computer controlled embroidery machines. Today, programs are recorded on a computer floppy diskette. Same as the embroidery pattern.
 

 

What is an Embroidery Pattern?
An electronic program which directs the embroidery equipment to reproduce a specific desgin. The pattern may be a paper tape or a computer diskette.
 

 

What is Stitch Count?
Accumulated total of stitches requrierd to complete the design.
 

 

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What is Direct Embroidery?
The process of sewing a name or design directly to a garment.
 

 
Fabric Treatments 
   
 

What is Yarn Dyed?
A fabric such as a plaid, check or stripe where the color is in the dyed threads or yarns before weaving or knitting cloth, as opposed to the color being printed on the fabric after being woven.
 

 

What is Enzyme Washed?
A process of washing using organic substances that cause transformation or accelerate the aging of dyes.
 

 

What is Sand Wash?
The process of washing fabric or a garment with sand to soften and distress the look of the fabric.
 

 

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What is Garment Washed?
After a garment is sewn it is washed to cut down on shrinkage and add softness to the garment.
 

 

What is Bleach Washed?
The process of washing fabric or a garment with bleach to soften and distress the look of the fabric.
 

 

What is Stone Wash?
The process of washing fabric or a garment with stone to soften and distress the look of the fabric.
 

 

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What is a Peach Wash Finish?
A peach fuzz like finish applied to washed poplin with a light nap for a soft, supple feel.
 

 

What is Garment Dyed?
Apparel dyed in garment form rather than fabric form. This is a popular fashion treatment used by designers.
 

 
Fabric Types 
   
 

What is Twill?
A fabric whose weave is made up of 2 or 3 warp yarns or threads to every one weft. Weave with diagnol ribs and large number of variations. Diagonals may be set at sharp or blunt angles, may be embedded or raised. Important types are flannels, serges, gabardines, and surahs.
 

 

What is Reactive Printed Fabric?
A printed fabric, printed with a reactive dye that promotes colorfastness.
 

 

What is Poplin?
A blend of cotton and polyester and rayon fibers. Characteristics include luxurious soft touch with a drapeable hand.
 

 

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What is a Pique?
Knit fabric with raised lengthwise cords which are part of the weave.
 

 

What is Chambray?
A broad class of plain weave, yarn-dyed, cotton or synthetic fabrics made with a colored yarn and white filling.
 

 

What are Knits?
Fabrics constructed by interlocking a series of loops by hand or machine. Knitted fabrics tend to mold and fit easily to body shape; woven fabrics, in contrast, drape.
 

 

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What is Micro Suede?

Usually a nyon/polyester blended yarn that is spun into a microfiber like fabric. It is then brushed twice to achieve the suede touch. The first brushing is applied before dyeing and the second brushing is considered a suede process which actually is brushed with pins. Then the fabric is dyed and sheared which gives the final suede look and touch.


 
 

What is Microfiber?
Microfibers are man-made ultra fine fibers available in acrylic, nylon, polyester and rayon. When woven they produce an extremely drapeable, very soft and luxurious fabric.
 

 

What is Lycra?
An elastomeric fiber that is blended with other fibers. Can stretch 500 percent without breaking. Holds dyes well and is resistant to heat. Trademark owned by Du Pont.
 

 

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What is Jersey Knit?
A single-knit, plain-stitched fabric with a face side that is markedly different from the back side.
 

 

What is Crepe?
A fabric characterized by a broad range of crinkled or grained surface effect.
 

 

What is Double Knit?
A knit fabric of double thickness.
 

 

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What is Brushed Napping?
Knit or woven fabrics of wool, cotton or synthetics. The result is a flannel-like texture.
 

 

What is Chamois Twill?
A Dunbrooke adjective used to identify a heavily brushed twill fabric.
 

 

What is Texturing?
To achieve a matte, cotton-like texture, a jet of air is blown on a fiber to give it a rough, non-reflective surface. Textured fibers offer greater bulk and airness to a fabric without increasing its weight.
 

 

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What is Non-woven Fabrics?
Materials that are produced by interlocking or bonding fabrics together.
 

 

What is Broadcloth?
Closely woven fabric with very fine embedded ribs and a lustrous finish. Made in many weights, fibers, and blends. Resembles fine poplin.
 

 

What is Pile Fabric?
Fabric with cut fibers or uncut loops which stand up densely on the surface. Usually has plush feel (i.e. bath towel, velvet.)
 

 

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What is SportFleece?
A Dunbrook term used to identify anti-pill polyester fleece.
 

 

What is Polynosic?
Polynosic is a type of microfiber that is a blend of advacned polyester and rayon fibers. Charactertistics include luxurious soft touch with a drapeabel hand.
 

 

What is Tricot?
French for warp-knitted fabric. Tricots are flat knitted with fine ribs on the face (lengthwise) and ribs on the back(widthwise).
 

 

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Garment Weaves 
   
 

What is Birdseye?
A fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center.
 

 

What is Houndstooth?
Design woven into a fabric that looks like a star pattern.
 

 

What is Argyle?
A popular design for knitted fabrics. Two or three colors are generally used in a diamond shape arrangement.
 

 

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What is Jacquard?
Woven-in pattern created by a special loom. A raised desgin or pattern woven into the fabric as opposed to being printed on the fabric.
 

 

What is Nylon Oxford Weave?
A coarse, plain weave cloth.
 

 

What is Herringbone?
Broken twill weave giving a zig-zag effect.
 

 

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What is Oxford Weave?
A group of cotton or man-made fabrics made with a modified plain weave or basket weave. Mainly used as shirting material.
 

 

What is Plain weave?
The basic criss-cross method of weaving cloth.
 

 

What is Basketweave?
A finely woven all-over textured resembling a weave commonly found in baskets.
 

 

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What is Jump stitch?
Stitch in excess of 7mm used to jump (cut, going from one design to another) from one portion of the design to another.
 

 
Imprint Methods 
   
 

What is etching?

Etched is when an image is covered with a protective coating that resists acid. The image is then exposed, leaving bare metal and protected metal. The acid attacks only the exposed metal, leaving the image etched onto the surface.

 

 

What are the different imprinting methods?

Imprinting Methods When your logo, slogan, company name or advertising message is put on a promotional product, it's called an imprint. The product it's put on usually determines the imprinting method used. Let's look at the 13 most common processes: Debossing: The image is depressed into a material such as paper, leather or suede, so the image sits below the product surface. Decal transfer: The decal is printed on an offset or letterset press, submerged in water and placed on the product. Excess water and air is squeegeed off and the product is kiln-fired, a process that fuses the decal with the glaze. Most often seen on glass, china, porcelain and ceramic products. Die-casting: Molten metal is injected into the cavity of a carved die (a mold). Die-striking: A method of producing emblems and other flat promotional products. A blank, cut from a metal sheet, is struck with a hammer that holds the die. Embedments: Materials such as a product replica, for example, are suspended in a clear substrate, usually Lucite. Embossing: The raising of an image on a product, accomplished by pressing the material between concave and convex dies. Embroidery: A design stitched into fabric through the use of high-speed, computer-controlled sewing machines. Engraving: Cutting an image into metal, wood or glass by one of three methods - computerized engraving, (cutting or engraving) hand tracing or hand engraving. Etched: An image is covered with a protective coating that resists acid. The image is then exposed, leaving bare metal and protected metal. The acid attacks only the exposed metal, leaving the image etched onto the surface. Hot Stamping: A dry imprinting process in which a design or type is set on a relief die that is subsequently impressed with heat and pressure onto the printing surface. Offset Lithography: A printing process in which the image is transferred to a rubber blanket, which in turn applies it to the surface to be printed. Pad Printing: A recessed surface is covered with ink. When the plate is wiped clean, ink remains in the recessed areas. A silicone pad then presses against the plate, pulls the ink out of the recesses, and presses it directly onto the product. Screenprinting: An image is transferred to the printed surface by ink squeegeed through a stenciled screen stretched over a frame. Screens are treated with a light-sensitive emulsion, then film positives are put in contact with the screens and exposed to light. The light hardens the emulsion not covered by the film, leaving a soft area on the screen for the squeegee to force ink through.

 

 

What is debossing?

Debossing is when the image is depressed into a material such as paper, leather or suede, so the image sits below the product surface.

 

 

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What is a decal transfer?

Decal transfer is when a decal is printed on an offset or letterset press, submerged in water and placed on the product. Excess water and air is squeegeed off and the product is kiln-fired, a process that fuses the decal with the glaze. Most often seen on glass, china, porcelain and ceramic products.

 

 

What is die-casting?

Die-casting is when molten metal is injected into the cavity of a carved die (a mold).

 

 

What is die-striking?

Die-striking is a method of producing emblems and other flat promotional products. A blank, cut from a metal sheet, is struck with a hammer that holds the die.

 

 

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What is an embedment?

Embedment takes materials such as a product replica, for example, and suspends it in a clear substrate, usually Lucite

 

 

What is embossing?

Embossing raises an image on a product. It is accomplished by pressing the material between concave and convex dies.

 

 

What is engraving?

Engraving uses cutters to cut an image into metal, wood or glass.

 

 

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What is hot stamping?

Hot Stamping is a dry imprinting process in which a design or type is set on a relief die that is subsequently impressed with heat and pressure onto the printing surface.

 

 

What is offset lithography?

Offset Lithography is printing process in which the image is transferred to a rubber blanket, which in turn applies it to the surface to be printed.

 

 

What is pad printing?

Pad Printing uses a recessed surface that is covered with ink. When the plate is wiped clean, ink remains in the recessed areas. A silicone pad then presses against the plate, pulls the ink out of the recesses, and presses it directly onto the product.

 

 

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What is screenprinting?

Screenprinting is when an image is transferred to the printed surface by ink squeegeed through a stenciled screen stretched over a frame. Screens are treated with a light-sensitive emulsion, then film positives are put in contact with the screens and exposed to light. The light hardens the emulsion not covered by the film, leaving a soft area on the screen for the squeegee to force ink through.

 

 

What is embroidery?

Embroidery stitches a design into fabric through the use of high-speed, computer-controlled sewing machines.

 

 
Screenprinting 
   
 

What is the standard imprint area?

For information on imprint areas of various garments go to Home - Production, Screenprinting, Imprint Areas.

 

 
Website Information 
   
 

Why is my print out blank when I try to print a page from your website?
To remedy this problem choose File and then Print. Choose the option Print as laid out on screen. Then go back to the website and choose the Print icon in the icon bar. Your print should look like what is on screen.